It's a YUKON life
With great gratitude, my travels this summer have taken me to the great white north and land of the midnight sun, Yukon territory.
Magical beauty on a hike at The Gunnar Nilsson and Mickey Lammers Research Forest, just outside Whitehorse.
In university one of my flatmates was from Whitehorse, and I clearly remember how exotic and foreign it seemed to me. As far as I was concerned, it was as different and as far away as Europe. Fast forward some time and some travels, and yes, still a distance to travel, but not so different as my 20-year old mind had created. Who’da thunk?
Shot from the Whitehorse Riverfront path looking towards downtown, and the iconic Whitehorse Inn. The path is part of a 46km Millennium Trail that loops around Whitehorse. So many trails to choose from in your daily adventures in the city.
That said, the Yukon is beautiful and unique territory all onto its own. If I had to describe it, it would be an arid, less ginormous version of B.C.; heck, it even resembled the Muskokas in many ways with its delicious lakes and conifers in the summer. And from what is described to me, a very legitimate and long northern winter. One of these days I’ll describe better when I spend some time here in the deep winter cold.
My dear friend and her pops, cruisng down the Yukon River, which runs right through Whitehorse.
Yukoners love where they live and love their space. Being outdoors and living in nature is a major tenant of northern life. The capital city of Whitehorse, sitting at about 35 000 people, contains about 80% of the territorial population, and the remaining 20% live rurally or in small towns.
Life is unique here, and many places are multi-purposed— like the Takhini gas station that also is a mini-bakery and cafe —and houses a small grocery and off-sales liquor. The building adjacent is a family-owned Yukon beef store with fine cuts of locally-grown meat and other high quality products.
The view from their dock looking onto the creek just off of Lake Laberge…just incredible.
The friends I am staying with live about half a hour outside the city on Lake Laberge and effectively have their own hobby farm, replete with chickens and out-of-ground vegetable beds. The summers here are short and intense, touting about 22 hours of daylight, when really the sun just barely dips down here on its revolving solar path around the planet. Black-out curtains or an eye mask are a must if you need the dark to sleep. This is where life can become a little manic, as the daylight can gently edge to you keep awake and do stuff, with few indicators to ‘shut it down’ and go to bed. Going for a canoe ride at 10 pm or 4 am would feel about the same….in ample daylight.
Just for fun, this is a photo I took at about 1:40 a.m. in early July. Doesn’t feel like night time, does it?
Another shot of Laberge in the twighlight hours from a canoe…deliciously pristine and quiet.
That said, the roles reverse in the summer, and I imagine the driving desire to be in full hibernation mode would be present in full force with a scant 4-5 hours of sunshine.
On Lake Laberge…lucky enough to spot a beaver nearby, before it disappeared underwater.
The first time I came to Whitehorse, I didn’t know what to expect, but I knew it would be wonderful. And it was. The city was quite well-equipped, having all the creature conveniences you need, including many independent businesses including bakeries, restaurants, cafes and coffee roasteries, micro-breweries, local Indigenous and non-Indigenous artisans, athletic and community centers, and of course, a CBC building. Everything is on a smaller scale of course, but charming and lovely. And Yukoners are super kind and friendly. With such a small community, it makes sense to know your neighbours and to help out where you can. After all, you’re going to be seeing each other pretty regularly in this close-knit community.
Local musican Ryan McNally performing during a lunch hour concert in the park.
What’s also really wonderful to witness is the strong support of the Indigenous community, both with the beautiful Kwanlin Dün Cultural Centre, and with the active programming to share history and contemporary skills and contributions of indigenous members. There seems to be a real pride in creating opportunities to support and promote the Indigenous communities in the Yukon (as well as northern BC and NWT). This is modelling that the rest of Canada could add to their playbook, to see how we can all work together, Indigneous and non-Indigneous in an integrated and connected way, in which everyone can benefit and grow.
Kwanlin Dün Cultural Centre in Whitehorse. A gorgeous and massive centre that has a full kitchen and cafe, meeting rooms, concert hall, museum, & gift store full of incredible Indigenous handmade art, clothing and traditional cultural handiwork.
With the Yukon River flowing right through the city and mountain-biking hills that surround the city, Whitehorse itself is a natural playground. It also is a departure point to many other exciting natural and historical destinations. Whether you are interested in learning more about the historical imprint of the Klondike gold rush, or prefer to get outside and hike some incredible trails, partake in kayak or canoe adventures, rugged and exciting mountain bike trails, or just sit back, relax and enjoy the beautiful and pristine nature that surrounds you, Yukon is the place to be.
Another vantage point from one of the many hiking trails in the Research Forest. Can you see yourself on the top of the crest, viewing the natural world around you? Simply gorgeous.
