SAINT MARTIN: FOOD DIARY
To see more on overall information of SXM, see my blog post, TRAVEL DIARY: SAINT MARTIN
So if you haven’t felt my vibe yet, I’ll just put it out there: I LOVE FOOD. I love making food, I love eating food, I love smelling, touching, experiencing, and sharing food….I love it all.
When the opportunity arrives to be able to experience food in a new or different context outside my regular routine, I am all over it! Let’s just say, Saint Martin did not disappoint.
French Mediterranean is probably the best way to describe the food style that I experienced. Most of the dishes focus on local fresh fish & seafood, vegetables, and fruits that are local to the Caribbean islands. That said, there is always a variety of freshly shipped meats and cheeses that arrive from Europe regularly, as well as grocery staples imported from France in the supermarkets and boutique grocers. If you want to take a dive into Caribbean cooking and foord, there are also multiple Caribbean grocers with local brands and foods, all at reasonable prices. Someone pinch me, ‘cause I’m in FOOD PARADISE.
Here’s the FOOD LOWDOWN:
(1) Expect to pay for quality food.
Food culture here is focused on fresh local fish and in-season vegetables– it’s a foodie’s dream come true. That said, eating out at a restaurant will reflect these values, and the fact that most things are flown in daily or shipped by boat to the island for consumption. A main course can cost 22-45E on average, not including an appetizer (15-22E) or wine, but you’ll be swooning at the table from every delicious bite.
LOLOs: I dined at one in Grand Case Bay and they are present all over the island. In the Caribbean, a LOLO is a Locally Operated Locally Owned food stand or restaurant, often an open-air experience. Caribbean Creole in style, including lots of grill and barbeque options with a plethora of side dishes that accompany. A LOLO meal at Grand Case ranged from 11E to 28E , depending on the type of meal you order. I had a delicious dinner of freshly caught red snapper (the entire fish), 6 side dishes, and beer for 25E.
(2) Be open to experiencing what each restaurant does best.
For maximum enjoyment, I’d recommend being open and flexible to what each place does well. The maître d’ or server will always be willing to give recommendations on what each establishment is known for, and allow yourself to be open to new and different flavours.
Asking for substitutions did not seem common; it’s more of a ‘trust us, we know what is excellent together” sort of vibe. And honestly, the food culture does not disappoint.
My Personal Foodadventure: WHAT I ATE
Here’s a sampling of some of my favourites….
Le Temps des Cerises Restaurant: A beautiful restaurant housed in the boutique hotel in Grand Case Bay, oceanside. This is a beatiful oceanside boutique hotel and restaurant. Everything was lovely, from the plates, to the decor, to the vibe and the service.
What I ate: Poke bowl with fresh-caught marlin, red snapper egg rolls, handmade cocktails. Incredible.
A shot of the beautiful interior with our sassy and lovely server @Les Cerises
What are LOLOs?
A Lolo is a locally operated and locally owned restaurant, focusing on Creole cuisine and barbeque. A more detailed understanding can be found here. The site wearesxm.com gives a comprehensive listing of local foods, dishes, flavours, as well as all the LOLO options on both sides of SXM. The LOLOs I visited in Grand Case Bay oceanside, are listed below.
Cynthia’s Talk of the Town (LOLO) Restaurant, Grand Case Bay
LOLOs of Grand Case Bay.
Other barbeque restaurants in this space are are Scooby’s, Rib Shack No.6, and Sky’s the Limit.
What I ate: fresh-caught red snapper, coleslaw, potato salad, mac & cheese, green salad, roasted veg, & dirty rice
One of the many barbeque stations at this LOLO restaurant group (five restaurants under one roof in Grand Case Bay.
Langoustines awaiting their time to be grilled. The pitmaster was super skillful with the crustaceans and a cleaver.
My sunset view from the restaurant, as Grand Case is the west side of the island.
Sunset Cafe and Bar, Grand Case Beach Club and Hotel
LA PLAYA Restaurant & Beach Club (Orient Bay)
What I ate: .gourmet beef burger, fries, and beer. Delicious.
So this isn’t a picture of my food…trust me, it was fab. But here’s the proximity of the open-air restaurant to the beach club. And that damn beautiful sun!
L’Astrolabe Restaurant (Orient Bay, at Esmeralda resort)
Ack! Le suis désolé! I see I was too busy enjoying the langoustine dinner to take any photos….picture this place at sunset, umbrellas up, romantic lighting around the pool, and a live French singer in the background….and an INCREDIBLE meal.
What I ate: a three-course langoustine dinner, including lobster bisque, home-made ravioli with foie gras & a mushroom emulsion, and a house-made napoleon with mascarpone and raspberry for dessert
This restauant has been around for 21 years, and they have a weekly surf and turf night and a lobster night that will need reservations. They also have a 3 course prix fixe for 54E which is quite a good value for the quality and service.
Here’s a pic of the langoustines…before they become your dinner. Notice there’s no front claw like the lobster, but much larger and longer tail and torso (more sweet meat).
SAO Restaurant (Orient Bay)
I ate here several times. Excellent Japanese with a flair of French.
What I ate: Tuna tartare, fresh shrimp dumplings, ratatouille, salmon sushi, spiced edamame. All dishes were exquisite and very fresh.
Sao’s sushi…how can you not want more?
A quick shot of the open-air restaurant, SAO.
L’Atelier Restaurant (Orient Bay)
This restaurant specializes in high quality cuts of meat and fresh fish. Owner Alex, master chef, and staff do an incredible job.
Outdoors at L’Atelier in Orient Bay.
What I ate: crispy egg in a corn chowder veloute, red snapper tartare (pictured above), a host of other fresh fish dishes with their vegetable accompaniments, and an unforgettable chocoate brownie with truffle (actual truffle).
Other notable mentions:
Rainbow Cafe in Grand Case Bay. I didn’t have an opportunity to eat here, but the design and decor are beautiful. Check out the rooftop patio for a delightful view with breakfast…
Captain Frenchy’s Restaurant in Grand Case Bay. This restaurant is definitely a little more casual & laid back (think bottle service on a table at the shore line), and a more affordable price point. I only came for the view and a drink, but both were delicious and the service staff were wonderful. Definitely a place to head if you are looking for a little more social or party vibe.
POINTS to remember:
As i understand, most hotels provide European continental breakfast (which are markedly better than other North American continentals I’ve experienced) with freshly baked mini croissants, fresh baguette with french butter, jams, and a fresh fruit plate. You can always purchase a full breakfast if you like, but I actually found what was provided substantive.
N.B. On your menus, remember that entrée in French actually means appetizer, literally translated ‘to start’, not a main course. Mains would be under your ‘plat principal’’.
For more information on food, restaurants, and everything else SXM, please have a look through this website that has all things SXM.
This French-based website, st-martin.org also provides a very good overview of tourism in SXM as well as neighbouring islands of Anguilla, Saba, and St. Bart’s ( Saint Barthélemy).
Amusez-vous bien!
Fresh coconut water and coconut meat on the beach daily, what a treat!
