Cipaille: The Great Pontiac Foodventure
Cipaille (Cipate/ Cipâte/ Sea-Pie)
Bonjour mes amis! I’m so stoked to share this recipe with you. Cipaille is a rich and hearty main course that is unique to Quebec and varies in style by region. From my own experience, it is a well-known dish in the Pontiac region of Quebec (Ottawa Valley, near Gatineau). Most often it is a traditional dish served at Christmas, though can be found at any large family gathering or special event. Cipaille, Cipâte or Six-pâtes (depending on what area of Quebec you are from) is, simply-put, a massive, slow-baked, deep dish, meat pie. Its roots are in both French and Irish Canadian cuisine. The origins of the name are based on the idea of six layers: several types of meat, potatoes, with crust separating each layer. For a little more history, see this blog post.
From what I’ve researched, cipaille was a staple meal in Catholic church bazaars in smaller Quebecois communities during the summer season, linking it strongly with the French community. Cipaille can be made with domestic and/or game meats, ensuring there is enough fat in the mix for a moist bake. Some recipes include potatoes and other root vegetables, though the Pontiac region style of cipaille I’m riffing on is a meat and crust-based pie only.
The key to a delicious and tender dish is in the baking: low and slow. This method ensures the tougher cuts of meat can break down, and have opportunity for the flavours and juices to marry. Cipaille is hearty, rich and comforting, and one truly feels the importance of ritual and tradition in the creation of this dish. In my observations, there’s quite an importance on getting the family recipe ‘just right’, being able to perfectly re-create their ma-mere’s or pa-pere’s cipaille.
Quebecois winter fare at its finest…
Are you ready to be blown away in meaty deliciousness? Let’s get started!
Cipaille Meat filling:
This is the main event.
3.5 cups chopped pork shoulder (~ 2lbs, or 1 kg)
3.5 cups chopped chicken thighs (skinless, boneless) (~2 lbs or 1 kg)
4 cups chuck pot roast, cubed (~ 3 lbs or 1.2 kg)
3 med/ large, or 4 small/med white onions, thinly chopped
4 cloves of garlic, minced
2 tbsp +1 tsp Himalayan salt (you can use up to 3 tbsp of salt)
2 tbsp dried thyme
1 tbsp ground chili powder
1 tbsp + 1 tsp ground pepper
6 tbsp red wine
1 cup chicken broth (***to be used at time for baking only!)
Mix all ingredients together (except chicken broth) in an extra-large bowl. Cover and refrigerate overnight (about 8-12 hours).
Crust:
Traditionally, Cipaille has a white flour crust bottom, a crust layer in the middle, and a crusted top. Some recipes include a tradional savory pie crust, some make a hybrid crust with Bisquick; some use game meats and potatoes; each family has their own special take on cipaille. I really like the traditional three layers of crust as it creates this impressive finished product. My local indie grocers have some amazing locally milled flours I’ve been playing with and am super excited to share with you.
Below, I’m giving you the crust ingredient amounts to make a triple crust, though you can choose how many layers you wand to create. Use the triple if going with my recipe design.
Triple Buckwheat Crust: As you can see, I use a savoury crust as the varied grain flavours add another layer of utter fab to this recipe. The earthiness of the buckwheat and the nuttiness of the spelt and fife really compliment & add a wonderful flavour profile to the cipaille. However, if you’re feeling more inclined to use a regular all-purpose crust instead, it will work just as well. Seriously though, if you’re willing to venture out and try the buckwheat crust….it’s crazy delicious.
1 ½ c spelt flour
1 ½ c buckwheat flour
3/4 c red fife flour
1 ½ c cold butter
1 ½ tsp Himalayan salt
9 tbsp ice water
For a quick review on how to make a pie crust, check out either video on a step-by-step pastry tutorial. Both give similar end results with different techniques. My two favourite pie crust tutorials are by Kenji Alt-Lopez by Serious Eats, and video tutorial with Stella by Serious Eats
Important info: You need to use a cast iron or ceramic-coated cast iron pot (think Le Creuset or Cuisinart Enameled Cast Iron Dutch Ovens) for this recipe. It is completely oven-baked and baked at a slow temperature. The cast iron is part of the magic in this recipe.
Cipaille Assembly:
Keep crust refrigerated until needed. Roll out each layer as you need it in the assembly, keeping crust cold.
(1) Roll out bottom layer, rolling out thin enough that it will cover the dutch oven bottom (if it extends a little up the sides, totally fine).
(2) Lightly grease pot with butter before laying down crust; lay down crust on bottom of pot. Add half of the meat mixture (optional: drizzle 1- 2 tbsps of red wine onto the meat layer).
(3) Roll out the second layer, making a tablespoon-sized hole in the middle (for steam and juices to escape). Cover the meat mixture and tuck crust neatly around the sides of the dutch oven.
(4) Add the last half of the meat mixuture (and another 2 tbsp drizzle of red wine if you choose); gently and evenly pat down the mixture. Roll out the top crust layer (with another hold in the middle for steam/ juices) and decorate as you’d like. You can brush with an egg wash (not critical as most of the baking is covered).
(5) Cover with lid and put into middle of oven at 300F for ~5 hours. Check every 90 min or so to make sure there is enough moisture in the cipaille. You can add a few tablespoons of vegetable or chicken broth if it looks dry.
(6) The last 20-30 minutes you can bring the bake up to 350F or so with the cover off to crisp up the top crust. It should be bubbly and gorgeous and fill the home with an incredible scent. The benefit of the ‘peep hole’ is that you’ll also be able to see the meat and see how well it is cooked through.
(7) Important: Remove from oven and let rest for 20-30 mins before serving in order to absorb juices and cool internal temperature. Lid can stay on, or just pop a crack to hasten the process.
Serve with light sides like steamed or sauteed greens—think rapini, collard greens, fermented veggies, hearty salad, or roasted/grilled veggies (think roasted brussel sprouts) as this is a very rich dish. But so satisfying and comforting on a cold winter’s day.
Layers and layers of tender deliciousness!
Cipaille Cipaille, Cipâte or Six-pâtes; a.k.a. Deep Dish Meat Pie
Ingredients
Instructions
- Combine the flours and salt into a food processor. Pulse a few times to make sure dry ingredients are uniformly mixed together.
- Cut the cold butter into small squares scatter over flour. Pulse until the mixture is crumbly and uniform, about 10-15 seconds.To test: you can pinch the mixture together with your fingers and it should stick together.
- Add in ice water one tablespoon at a time until ball starts to form. Remove from processor and place in a mound on a clean surface. Work the dough just enough to form into a ball. Cut into 3 pieces, then form each portion into a disc shape. Wrap each disc with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 days.
- You can also freeze the buckwheat dough it for up to 3 months (just thaw it overnight in the fridge before using it). Leave it on the counter for 5 minutes before rollling out.
- Mix all ingredients together (except chicken broth) in an extra-large bowl. Cover and refrigerate overnight (about 8-12 hours).
- Roll out bottom layer crust to about 1/4 inch thickness and it covers the bottom of the cast iron pot you are using. (If dough extends a little up the sides, totally fine).Grease pot with butter before laying down crust.
- Gently spread half the mixture out onto the bottom crust, and press down gently to remove any air pockets or gaps.
- Repeat step 1, but cut out a 2x2 inch hole in the centre of the crust. This is to allow juices to bubble and redistribute during the cooking time.
- Repeat step 2.
- Roll out last crust piece to cover the top of the cipaille, repeating step 3 (cut out hole). Use the lid to trace the correct size and shape of top layer. Cover the meat mixture and tuck crust neatly around the sides of the dutch oven.
- Combine discarded dough from step 3 and 5. With this dough, roll out and cut shapes to add to the top layer of the cipaille for decoration.
- Cover with lid and put into middle rack of oven at 300 F for ~5 hours.
- Check every 90 min or so to make sure there is enough moisture in the cipaille. You can add a few tablespoons of vegetable or chicken broth if it looks dry.
- The last 20-30 minutes, bring the bake up to 350F and take the cover off to crisp up the top crust. It should be bubbly and gorgeous and fill the home with an incredible scent. *The benefit of the ‘peep hole’ is that you’ll also be able to see the meat and see how well it is cooked through.
- Important: Remove from oven and let rest for 20-30 mins before serving in order to absorb juices and cool internal temperature. Lid can stay on, but pop a crack to hasten the process.
- Serve with light sides like steamed or sauteed greens—think rapini, collard greens, fermented veggies, hearty salad, or roasted/grilled veggies (think roasted brussel sprouts) as this is a very rich dish. But so satisfying and comforting on a cold winter’s day.
Notes
PRO-TIPS!
- This dish can be made in stages in advance. Feel free to make the crust the day before, with the meat mixture, so on the day of cooking, you just need to assemble.
- Buckwheat flour and spelt flour give a nutty, beautiful, refined and yet still rustic or hearty taste to this dish; definitely worth a try if you’ve ever worked with buckwheat. A little gives a lot of flavour, and buckwheat is also gluten-free.
- This dish tastes great after the initial bake (like lasagna or soup). Feel free to freeze extra portions (up to a month) and defrost for a dinner meal at a later date.
- Troubleshooting the dough: The goal is to have the crumbs should begin to form larger clusters when the water is added. It's a balance between moist enough to stick together, but not wet. When adding the water, test after the addition of 3/4 of the alloted amount of ice water. If you pinch some of the dough and it holds together, it’s ready. If the dough falls apart, add 2 to 4 more tablespoons of water and continue to press until dough comes together.
- Filling is BEST if made the day/evening before and rests for at least 8 hours (overnight) as the flavours need to marry for best results. Not critical, but ideal.
- Buy the best quality sourced meat you can afford (a.k.a. not from factory farming). I went to my local butcher—it cost a little more because they deal directly with smaller farms, but OMG, the quality and taste was palpable; the beef was super tender and flavourful, and each individual meat I could taste as tender and delicious.
- I used pork shoulder, skinless boneless chicken thighs, and chuck pot roast (make sure it’s evenly marbled). I cut off any big unnecessary fatty bits, but don’t feel obsessive to remove all the fat. Remember, as this is a low and slow dish, you want and need some fat to keep the dish tender while it is cooking. It adds depth of flavour and moisture. You can use other cheaper cuts of meat in this dish as the long baking time is what helps to break down the muscle/sinews of the meat to create such tenderness.
- You need to use a cast iron or ceramic-coated cast iron pot (think Le Creuset or Cuisinart Enameled Cast Iron Dutch Ovens) for this recipe. It is completely oven-baked and slowly baked at a low temperature. The cast iron is part of the magic in this recipe.
- Forget the potatoes!! Serve with light sides like steamed or sauteed greens—think rapini, collard greens, fermented veggies like sauerkraut, hearty salad, or roasted/grilled veggies (think roasted brussel sprouts) as this is a very rich dish. So satisfying and comforting on a cold winter’s day!
* Nutrition data is approximate and is for informational purposes only.
